Jet lag got you feeling down? Try this!

Are you tired of long and uncomfortable plane rides? Do ever you wish you could have a full spa experience included with your economy class ticket?

If you answered yes to any of the questions above AND are planning a trip to East Asia then this post is for you. Here I would like to detail one my most favorite travel experiences: a 19hr boat ride from Busan, South Korea to Osaka, Japan. I begin my story at 2am partially submerged in a sauna filled with wooden cedar beads, a staple at traditional Korean jjimjibangs (saunas).

My late arrival into Busan Station

At the end of my South Korea trip, I had found myself in the port city of Busan. It’s about a 2 hour ride from Seoul on the high speed Korea rail. I was short on cash and eager to check out the 24-hour spas rumored to be only $10 for the entire night!

While enjoying the spa amenities, I tried to wrap my head around the best way to get to Tokyo, my final destination. My internal monologue was ran on:

"You have to be out of the spa at 9am, so about 6hrs left"..."Flying there (to Japan) is going to be so lame and expensive"..."Wow the wood is really hot I should probably get out soon"..."Mmmm frog shaped door handles, I love this place"

After a thorough sous-vide experience in the hot tub, I got dressed and retreated to the spa's main lounge to plan. I stumbled upon the Panstar Dreamliner, a passenger ferry offering one way transit from Busan to Osaka for only $60. What a steal! I quickly booked my ticket for that afternoon and skipped off to the nearest canteen for a delicious 3am meal.

At this point you may be wondering -- "Winter, do you plan anything in advance at all?."The answer is no. No I do not.

Ox bone soup, 설렁탕 (Seolleongtang)

The next morning I hit the ground running: visiting a few cultural sites, learning about Baekje dynasty textiles in a Korean history Museum, doing laundry, and waking aimlessly around the city for hours. I had lunch at a $5 all you can eat buffet place stocked FULL with tasty japchae, kimchi, and beef bulgolgi. (note: you will notice all of the photos are of food as meals were the one time I actually charged my phone.)

Food at the buffet!

One train ride later, I was standing in line at the Busan Port International Passenger Terminal with ticket in hand. After a mid-afternoon gimbap snack, I boarded the boat and set sail to Osaka.

On the Boat

Let me just start by saying this boat was LUXURY (for a broke college student). Firstly, I had a full room to myself big enough to sleep eight people and fluffy sleeping mats to lay on. I ended up spreading the mats out across the floor and making a giant bed to sleep on. Secondly, breakfast and dinner was served ON BOARD (I may have slept through both but was told it was good). Third, they had this crazy fire dancing/ circus act followed by a dance party which was so entertaining.

And now the BEST for last: a fully built out sentō (Japanese communal bathhouse) and sauna onboard. I was swimming around like the frog from Spirited Away. I would cook in the sauna, plunge into the cold tub, then hot tub, and repeat.

Frog from Studio Ghibli's "Spirited Away"

I spent most of the cruise sitting on the balcony overlooking the stern of the ship. I watched as Busan dissolved into the horizon and took in a fantastic sunset. Once the night caught up with us, I laid on my back out in the deck and counted the stars as they fell into view.

Sunset on the Sea of Japan